(Above: David Axell in a John Bartlett suit)
Within the first week of moving to New York City in the heat of the summer 16 years ago, I attended my first men’s fashion show. I wore a Jean Paul Gaultier cropped vest over a white linen tunic (both from his Spring 1994 collection) and a pair of high-waisted Dolce & Gabbana pants (from Filene’s Basement). Don’t laugh—it was 1994, after all—and my outfit was cool enough for Bill Cunningham (the man who single-handedly invented “Street Style” photography) to take my picture for The New York Times (sadly, it was the first—and only—time my picture would run in his “On The Street” column). The show was held in a raw, cavernous space (an empty warehouse?) in the far West Village on the edge of the now-fashionable Meatpacking District—and I was someone’s “plus one”. The show was John Bartlett.
I’ve attended many John Bartlett shows since—including one this past February for his Fall/Winter 2010 collection which was held during a major snowstorm (for that I wore a Ralph Lauren down-filled jacket and a Missoni cashmere hat). John (a Cincinnati native) has had a very interesting and exciting career since he graduated from Harvard in 1985—a career that has seen him launch his eponymous label in 1992 (after attending the Menswear program at the Fashion Institute of Technology), win two awards from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (the Perry Ellis Award for Best Newcomer in 1993 and the Best Menswear Designer of the Year in 1997), work as the Creative Director of (the Italian-based label) Byblos from 1998-2000, close his company in 2002 to take a sabbatical in Thailand and Cambodia (where he studied Ashtangha yoga and Buddhism), re-enter the industry at the end of 2003 and open his own store in the West Village in 2007.
Phew! Did you get all that? Well, it suffices to say that John is a super talented designer (and super charming too!)—and I am honored (and humbled) that he took the time out of his busy schedule to sit down and do “The Style Guyde Interview”:
What is your favorite piece from your Spring/Summer 2010 collection?
My favorite piece from Spring/Summer is my purple motorcycle belted jacket. It is cut from a glazed cotton linen. The purple is the perfect shade and you can wear it with navy, white and khaki! (See picture below)
What do you love most about designing men's wear?
What I love most about designing for men is that I am a man and I can relate to the pieces in a first person manner. Designing for women is more challenging because I have to rely on the women in my life to tell me what works and what doesn't. With men’s wear the experience is immediate and very personal.
Please describe "The John Bartlett Man."
The John Bartlett Man is ever evolving as I evolve. He is a smart dude, sexy but in a goofy sort of way, compassionate about the earth and animals, educated, and looks to his clothing to express himself not to define him.
What are the five items every man should own?
Every man should own a sexy pair of beaten up jeans, a gingham buttondown shirt, a denim blazer, a perfectly tailored navy pinstripe suit and a yoga mat!
What is the biggest mistake men make when getting dressed?
Men either wear clothing that is way too big for them or way too shrunken. When a man is swimming in his clothes, he looks out of touch with himself. When the clothes are too tight or shrunken he looks like he is trying to dress too young for his age or he looks like Pee Wee Herman, which is not a sexy look.
Who are your style icons?
My style icons are very random and kind of out there—UPS men, Hare Krishnas, Charlie Brown and Forrest Gump (I told you they were out there!).
Who or what has been your biggest influence?
My biggest influence has been my Dad, who passed away a year and a half ago. He inspired me to always be true to myself and to understand that if I am doing what I love, that I can contribute much more to society than if I were doing things only for the financial gain.
If you weren't a fashion designer, what would you be?
If I were not a fashion designer, I think I would be working with shelter dogs, teaching yoga or washing windows on the highest floors of the Empire State Building (I love heights!).
Let’s talk favorites:
Movie? Fassbinder's Querelle
Book? Dancer From The Dance by Andrew Holleran—a gay must read about NYC and Fire Island in the early ’70s.
Vacation spot? Parrot Cay
What's the one extravagance you can't live without?
I can’t live without my beloved dog walker. My hubby and I splurge for her to come walk our three dogs twice a day, which really adds up. But knowing that the dogs are happy and have “done their business” is money well spent.
What's on your current Playlist?
Vintage Led Zeppelin
Vampire Weekend
Philip Glass
Stevie Nicks
What astrological sign are you?
Aries with Sagittarius Rising
What's next for you and the John Bartlett brand?
I am re-launching women’s for Fall 2010, which will be tailor-made for all the cool lesbian girls that continually ask me to make my men’s wear in their sizes. Maybe a book, a reality show or another store... who knows!
Photography: Greg Vaughan
Styling: Antonio Branco @ De Facto
Model: David Axell @ Click Model Management
Check out http://www.johnbartlettny.com for more information.
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